My Gardenia has got litte webs on it and black looking stuff!? What should I do to treat it? Also, what is the best way to start brining it in for winter?

Just so you know, the gardenia is listed in my reference books as an outdoor plant in the Deep South, and a greenhouse plant in the North. Given the fact that we are somewhere in between here in Kentuckiana, it’s no wonder that most folks have a difficult time keeping Gardenias flourishing.

The Gardenia has thick, shiny evergreen leaves and flowers that bloom a waxy white. The flowers are about three inches across, quite fragrant and can be single or double.

There are a few varieties on the market now and grown in Kentucky that are proving to be hardy enough to make is outdoors. From a cultural standpoint the most important factor for keeping them is a site protected from the prevailing winter winds. Secondly, they will perform well in either full sun---provided the soil is high organic matter and moist or in part shade. They are acid loving plants, so soils may require amendment to adjust the pH downward.

There is an impressive list of pest that can potentially attack gardenias from whiteflies, thrips, aphids, mealybugs and mites (whcih can also lead to honeydew deposits and sooty mold)to powdery mildew and cankers. As a general rule though, if the plant is sited properly and stress free, the pests will stay at bay.

Mealy bugs are the most common pests of gardenias indoors. Infected plants can be treated with a cotton swab dipped in plain rubbing alcohol. Wipe the mealy bugs off with the cotton swab, taking care to swipe the leaf axils where mealybugs will congregate.

Stem canker can also be a problem in gardenias. The stem will be girdled at or just below the soil surface causing split stems and yellow leaves. Any infected plants should be destroyed, and the soil should not be reused.

Indoor gardenias will often suffer from bud-drop. This is usually a result of uneven temperatures and/or low humidity. Keep gardenias away from heat vents; keep the pots on trays of pebbles and water to raise the moisture level around the plants. Keep the pots ON TOP of the pebbles, not sitting IN the water. In general, a nice, bright room with east facing windows and with the heat vents closed to keep the room cool will be the best location for your gardenias.

The soil surface should be allowed to dry out between waterings, but the gardenias still like to have their roots systems evenly moist.
Once you find a spot where your gardenias seem happy, leave them there-they don’t like being moved around either!

Gardenias should be pruned in early spring—just before they are going back outdoors for the summer perhaps so control growth. Nip out the growing points of any long new shoots on the plant. (These tip cuttings can be used to start new plants too.) For larger plants, as much as half or two-thirds of the older wood of the plant can be cut back. Be careful though to not remove too many of the flower buds. Heavily budded stems can be cut back after flowers fade. Pruning cuts should be made immediately above an outwardly facing bud.