There have been volumes written about pruning practices. As a matter of fact, let me mention just a couple. Pruning Simplified by Lewis Hill is a comprehensive soft cover book with helpful illustrations.

The American Horticultural Society has a book titled Pruning & Training that includes photographs as well as illustrations and gives specific plant recommendations.

As for as the timing of pruning is concerned, here are some general rules of thumb.

Prune spring flowering trees and shrubs within about three weeks after they bloom.

Summer flowering plants can be cut back in late winter or early spring.

Deciduous trees should be pruned after they lose their leaves.

Evergreens are usually pruned in early spring.

Conservatively, no pruning should be done from about August 15 until the second killing frost. Pruning is a stimulant; tender new growth produced by cuts made in August may not have enough time to “harden off” or mature enough to withstand frost damage.

To prune established trees and shrubs, first remove dead or damaged branches, actually this can be done at any time; remove crisscrossing branches, any branches that rub against each other, and branches that are growing toward the center of the plant. Remove any suckers and water sprouts as necessary too. The best time to do regular pruning is in late winter or early spring when you can more clearly see the structure of the plant—although there are some exceptions to this general rule.


If you have big pruning jobs to tackle, hiring a professional is the only way to go. If you have some small jobs to take care of, you can do it yourself, but keep these tips in mind.

Pruning cuts should be made just outside the branch collar. The branch collar contains trunk or parent wood and should not be damaged or removed. The branch collar is a raised, wrinkled area at the intersection of the limbs.

If a large limb is to be removed, its weight should be reduced first. This is done by making an undercut about 12-18 inches from the limb’s point of attachment. A second cut is then made from the top directly above the or even a couple of inches out from the undercut. This will remove the limb leaving a 12-18 inch stub. The stub is then removed by making a clean sharp cut just outside the branch collar.

Making a three step cut like this is safer and it reduces the possibility of tearing the bark.

You should also take some tips from the professionals when you do your own work and always use the proper safety equipment. Safety glasses to protect eyes, earplugs to muffle the noise of power equipment, good sturdy, steel toed boots, a hard hat, and heavy leather gloves.