Japanese maples are botanically known as Acer palmatum, named for its palm-shaped leaf. Nursery professionals have divided the family of Japanese maples into several different divisions, among them Upright growing types and Dissectum types; within these various groups are an almost endless number of cultivars.
Japanese maples are very useful plants for the landscape. They are used as small shade trees—some cultivars will grow 15-25 feet in height and just as wide. They are used in mixed borders, as accent plants in beds, in groups or as specimen plants.
You will find Japanese maples that have distinctively green stems, bright red stems, and just about anything in between. Leaves will range from small to large; they can be finely cut, variegated, or brilliant red.
Sunlight exposure will greatly influence leaf color, dappled shade almost always seems the best. This of course, can be cultivar dependent, some culitvars tolerate more sun or shade than others. Just as a general rule though, if Japanese maples get too much shade, they will tend to be extra slow growing and the red types will be more green than red. If Japanese maples receive too much sun, they will be very susceptible to scorch and the leaf edges (or the entire leaf) will burn. It is a very common problem in hot, dry weather. The leaves will lose water more quickly than the tree’s root system can replace it.
You can help to reduce heat scorch and stress on the tree by making sure that it goes into the winter with plenty of moisture. If we are not receiving adequate rain (or snow), water your tree to provide an inch of water a week.
Next year, to help prevent this problem, be sure to water your tree during dry spells.
Japanese maples—like other maples-- tend to be one of the first landscape trees to leaf out in the spring. This makes them more susceptible to late spring frosts; so do plan to be able to cover the plants when they leaf out if we are expecting a frost. If your Japanese maple does get hit by frost, it may lose its first set of leaves. If your maple is healthy enough to begin with, it will leaf out again, but it may not put on much additional stem growth for that year.
Unfortunately, an occasional tree will sustain internal damage that will lead to its demise within that growing season-healthy or not. Keep your Japanese maples well-watered (at least one inch of water per week) if it loses its leaves, don’t use any granular fertilizer on it, although a half-strength solution of water soluble fertilizer once a month through June may prove helpful.
To prune a Japanese maple, begin the process by stepping back and taking a good, long look at your tree. Start slowly, selectively removing limbs or branches that are in your way or out of place. Remove limbs to open up the tree or to enhance the shape. A general rule of thumb would be to not remove more than one third of limb that you are heading back. The best time to prune Japanese maples is in early June, although damaged branches can be removed at any time of course.
In The Garden,
Cindi Sullivan